The Ultimate Guide To Afro & Textured Hair Types 3a, 3b, 3c, 4a, 4b & 4c

Afro and textured hair is an amazing and versatile world of beautiful curls, coils and kinks.  But with that beauty and versatility comes a unique set of needs, and understanding your hair type is the first step to unlocking the best ways to care for and nurture it. If you’ve ever wondered why one product works wonders for your friend’s hair but leaves yours feeling dry and lifeless, or why your curls behave differently in the summer versus the winter, then you’re in the right place and hopefully we can provide you with some answers.

In this article, we’ll take a fun, informative journey into the different types of afro and textured hair. Whether your hair is wavy, curly, coily, or kinky, you’ll walk away with a better understanding of what makes your hair unique and how to give it the care it deserves.

The Curl Classification System: What’s the Deal?

First things first, let’s talk about the curl classification system, also known as the hair typing system. You may have heard terms like 3A, 4B, or 4C thrown around, but what do these numbers and letters really mean? The system made popular by Oprah Winfrey’s hairstylist, Andre Walker, and it’s a great way to get a broad understanding of the general texture of your hair.  It’s also now becoming mainstream and is taught to hairdressing students as part of their hairdressing qualification.

Here’s a quick breakdown:

●     Type 1: Straight hair (we’ll skip this since it’s not relevant to our textured hair tribe).

●     Type 2: Wavy hair, ranging from loose waves (2A) to tighter S-shaped waves (2C).

●     Type 3: Curly hair, with curls that range from loose, springy spirals (3A) to tighter corkscrew curls (3C).

●     Type 4: Coily/kinky hair, with tighter, zig-zag patterns ranging from loose coils (4A) to densely packed, small coils (4C).

So, where do you fit in? Let’s explore each type in a bit more detail so you can identify your unique texture.

Type 3: Curly Hair

Curly hair (Type 3) is characterised by defined curls that form an “S” shape. Think bouncy, springy curls that love moisture but can get frizzy if left too dry or not treated with the right products.

●     3A: This hair type has big, loose curls that are relatively easy to define. The strands are typically fine, which means they can be prone to breakage or frizz if not cared for properly. These curls can look like large, soft waves or spirals, and they benefit from lightweight creams and gels that enhance their natural bounce without weighing them down.

●     3B: If your curls are tighter and more defined than 3A but still have that springy, corkscrew look, you’re in 3B territory. 3B curls are typically medium-textured, and they need a bit more moisture than 3A hair to stay defined and frizz-free. The best way to keep 3B curls popping is to focus on hydration with heavier creams and oils that help lock in moisture.

●     3C: Now we’re getting into serious curl territory. 3C curls are tightly packed, corkscrew-shaped, and have a lot of volume. This hair type is more prone to shrinkage (when your curls look shorter than they really are because of how tightly they coil), and it needs tons of moisture to stay healthy and hydrated. Deep conditioning treatments, heavier creams, and regular moisture sealing with oils are key to maintaining these beautiful, voluminous curls.

Type 4: Coily/Kinky Hair

Welcome to the kinky kingdom! Type 4 hair is known for its tight coils and kinks that create a gorgeous, voluminous shape. This hair type tends to be drier than others because the natural oils from the scalp struggle to travel down the tightly coiled strands. But with the right care, type 4 hair can thrive and look absolutely stunning.

●     4A: If you’ve got 4A hair, your coils are well-defined and have an “S” pattern, much like 3C curls, but tighter. This hair type is softer and more elastic than other Type 4 textures. While it’s prone to dryness, 4A hair is easier to define with the right products. A combination of moisture, rich creams, and natural oils will help maintain its elasticity and bounce.

●     4B: 4B hair bends in sharp angles, forming a “Z” pattern rather than the “S” of looser curl types. The curls are less defined but still beautiful in their zig-zag glory. 4B hair is more fragile and can shrink up to 70% of its actual length, making it appear much shorter than it is. To keep this hair healthy, focus on deep hydration, protective styles, and lightweight oils that seal moisture in without weighing it down.

●     4C: The queen of shrinkage, 4C hair is tightly coiled and densely packed with a “Z” pattern that can be difficult to see unless the hair is stretched. This hair type is the most fragile of the curl patterns and can shrink up to 75% or more. While it may require more maintenance, 4C hair is versatile and can be styled in an array of beautiful protective styles like twists, braids, and bantu knots. The key to thriving 4C hair is moisture, moisture, and more moisture! Regular deep conditioning, protective styling, and gentle handling are essential to avoid breakage and dryness.

Why Your Hair Type Matters

So, why does knowing your hair type even matter? Well, it’s all about personalisation. Every hair type has different needs when it comes to moisture, styling, and products. By understanding your hair type, you can tailor your routine to suit its unique demands. For example:

●     Type 3 hair needs lightweight moisture to prevent frizz without weighing down the curls.

●     Type 4 hair craves heavier creams and butters to stay hydrated and protected from breakage.

It’s not just about the products, though. Your hair type also influences how often you wash, detangle, and style your hair. For example, tighter coils (4A-4C) generally benefit from less frequent washing to preserve natural oils, whereas looser curls (3A-3B) may need more frequent washing to avoid product buildup.

Understanding Hair Porosity: The Secret to Better Moisture Retention
Knowing your curl pattern is just one piece of the puzzle. You also need to consider hair porosity. Porosity refers to how well your hair absorbs and retains moisture. There are three categories:

●     Low porosity: Your hair cuticles are tightly sealed, making it difficult for moisture to penetrate. Products tend to sit on top of the hair rather than being absorbed, so lighter, water-based products work best. Low porosity hair benefits from techniques like steam treatments to open the cuticle and allow moisture in.

●     Medium (normal) porosity: Your hair absorbs moisture well and retains it for a reasonable amount of time. It’s the easiest hair type to manage in terms of moisture, and you can use a variety of products without issues.

●     High porosity: Your hair cuticles are raised, which means it easily absorbs moisture but also loses it quickly. This type of hair needs heavier products like oils and creams to lock in moisture, and protein treatments can help strengthen the hair and fill in gaps in the cuticle.

Understanding your hair’s porosity is crucial for choosing the right products and techniques to keep your curls hydrated and healthy.

Embrace Your Texture, Embrace the Journey

Learning about your hair type is all about embracing what makes your hair unique. It’s easy to look at someone else’s curls and think, “Why doesn’t my hair do that?” But the beauty of afro and textured hair lies in its diversity. No two heads of hair are exactly the same, even if they share the same curl pattern.

So, the next time you find yourself frustrated with shrinkage, frizz, or a bad hair day, remember that understanding your hair is a journey. The more you learn about its specific needs, the more you’ll fall in love with its texture and versatility.

Quick Recap: What’s Your Hair Type?

●     3A: Loose, big curls; lightweight products are your friend.

●     3B: Tighter, springy curls; more moisture is key.

●     3C: Dense, corkscrew curls; hydration and moisture sealing are a must.

●     4A: Defined coils; moisture and creams to keep curls popping.

●     4B: Zig-zag curls with shrinkage; deep hydration and gentle care.

●     4C: Tightly packed coils with the most shrinkage; heavy moisturisers and protective styling are essential.

Once you’ve nailed down your hair type and porosity, you’re all set to tailor your hair care routine to meet your hair’s unique needs. From there, it’s all about experimenting, having fun, and loving the journey of caring for your beautiful afro or textured hair. It’s not just about the destination (that gorgeous, healthy mane) but the fun you have along the way!

Hair Care & Maintenance Routine

Can be linked to: The Best Routine For Afro Hair (afrotherapysalon.com)

Here’s a simple 8-step hair care and maintenance routine based on understanding your afro and textured hair type from the article above. This routine is designed to keep your curls, coils, or kinks healthy, moisturised, and thriving.

1. Cleanse Gently
●     Frequency: Every 1-2 weeks

●     Use a sulfate-free shampoo or cleansing conditioner to wash your hair. Afro-textured hair is naturally drier, so avoid over-washing. Focus on gently massaging the scalp to remove buildup without stripping your hair of its natural oils.

2. Deep Condition Regularly
●     Frequency: Weekly or bi-weekly

●     After washing, apply a deep conditioner that suits your hair’s porosity. For low porosity hair, use heat or steam to open the cuticles and allow moisture to penetrate. If you have high porosity hair, look for a deep conditioner with proteins to strengthen and hydrate the strands.

3. Moisturise
●     Frequency: Daily or every other day

●     Afro and textured hair needs consistent moisture. Apply a leave-in conditioner or use the LOC method (Liquid, Oil, Cream) to keep your hair hydrated. The liquid hydrates, the oil locks in the moisture, and the cream seals it all in. Adjust based on your hair type and porosity.

4. Seal in Moisture
●     Frequency: After every moisturizing session

●     Use natural oils like jojoba, castor, or coconut oil to seal moisture into your hair. For high porosity hair, you may need heavier oils, while low porosity hair may prefer lighter oils that don’t sit on top of the hair.

5. Detangle Gently
●     Frequency: After washing or moisturizing

●     Use a wide-tooth comb or your fingers to gently detangle your hair while it’s damp and coated with a conditioner or leave-in product. Start at the ends and work your way up to the roots to minimize breakage.

6. Trim Regularly (by a professional)
●     Frequency: Every 8-12 weeks

●     To keep split ends at bay, trim your hair regularly. This helps prevent damage from traveling up the hair shaft and promotes healthier, longer hair over time.

7. Protect Your Hair at Night
●     Frequency: Every night

●     Sleep on a satin or silk pillowcase or wrap your hair in a satin/silk scarf or bonnet to prevent breakage and moisture loss. Cotton pillowcases can cause friction, leading to tangles and split ends.

8. Use Protective Styles
●     Frequency: As desired (e.g., weekly or bi-weekly)

●     Opt for low-manipulation protective styles like braids, twists, or buns to give your hair a break from daily styling. Just make sure not to pull too tightly, especially around your edges, and moisturise your hair while in these styles.

By following these steps, you’ll create a consistent routine that promotes moisture, minimizes damage, and helps your hair thrive in its natural state!

Now you have a better understanding of your Afro and textured hair type and how to care for it.  If you really want to fast track your journey, then finding a great Stylist to work alongside you will fast track your results.

Book a consultation with one of the Afro & Textured Hair Stylists at Afrotherapy Salon who are experts and professionals with hair types 3a, 3b, 3c, 4a, 4b and 4c.

If you know exactly what service you need, why not book online.  You’ll be in good hands and your hair will thank you for it.

FAQs
How often should I wash my afro-textured hair?
It depends on your hair’s needs and your lifestyle. Generally, washing your hair every 1-2 weeks is recommended to avoid stripping away natural oils. However, if you have an active lifestyle and sweat often, you might want to cleanse more frequently using a co-wash (conditioning wash) in between your regular shampoo routine.
What’s the best way to detangle my hair without causing breakage?
Always detangle your hair when it’s wet or damp, and coated with a conditioner or leave-in product to give your hair slip and prevent breakage. Use a wide-tooth comb or your fingers to gently detangle, starting from the ends and working your way up to the roots.
How do I prevent shrinkage in my afro-textured hair?
Shrinkage is natural for afro-textured hair, especially for tighter curl patterns like 4C. To stretch your hair without using heat, try braiding or twisting your hair when it’s damp. You can also use banding (tying small bands along sections of your hair) to gently stretch your curls while they dry.
What are protective styles, and how long should I keep them in?
Protective styles like braids, twists, or buns help minimize manipulation and shield your hair from daily wear and tear. Depending on the style, you can keep protective styles in for 1-2 weeks or up to 6-8 weeks for longer-lasting styles like box braids. Just remember to moisturise your hair while in these styles and avoid leaving them in for too long to prevent buildup or breakage.
Can I use heat on my afro-textured hair?
Yes, but use it sparingly. Excessive heat can cause damage and weaken your hair over time. Always use a heat protectant when blow-drying, flat-ironing, or using curling tools, and try to limit heat styling to no more than once a month. Consider heat-free stretching methods like braiding, twisting, or roller sets.
Why are my edges thinning, and how can I protect them?
Thinning edges can be caused by tight hairstyles, excessive manipulation, or tension on the hairline. To protect your edges, avoid tight ponytails, braids, or wigs that pull on your hairline. Opt for low-tension styles and make sure to apply gentle oils (like castor oil) to strengthen and nourish your edges.
How can I keep my afro hair moisturised throughout the week?
To maintain moisture, follow the LOC method (Liquid, Oil, Cream) after washing, and reapply moisture as needed throughout the week using a leave-in conditioner or a water-based spray. Sealing in moisture with natural oils or butter is essential for keeping your hair hydrated, especially in dry or cold weather.